Friday, July 29, 2011

Sand, sun, surf and self-reliance.

The sun was shining when we got to the beach. I hopped out of the 4runner with my two younger brothers, more than ready to wash off the stress of the morning with a good surf session. Last time I surfed, the whole session was a bust. Wrong board, wrong waves, wrong place at the wrong time.. I couldn't quite get the hang of any timing...but today would be different. I could feel it.

Wetsuit on, board waxed, friend in tow, I followed my brother down to the water. "Yes!! Small clean lines, inconsistent. Dry hair paddle out!" These were my favorite kind of waves. Big enough to ride, but small enough that I wouldn't be getting a pounding today. There were about 80 surfers already in the line up, but once its that crowded, nobody cares anymore.

Water temp is high 70's and I'm starting to second guess the wetsuit decision by the time we paddle out. I shove my friend into her first wave, retrieve my board and paddle farther out to get one of my own.

"This is it! Yes! Its mine! I've got it! I'm up! It's clean, it's beautiful, it's a right! It' younger brother!? And he's not getting out of my way." He grabbed my board right before it went over him, and I pitched headlong into the water.. So much for dry hair. I stayed down as long as I could, knowing what came next, but eventually everyone has to breathe, so I came up and quietly received the tongue lashing I knew I deserved.

Dad saw the whole thing, and told my brother he should've paddled behind me, which made me feel a tiny bit better, but that was the last wave I caught. Period. By then, Dad was set up on a sand bar, shoving my friend into wave after wave. He kept asking me if I wanted help, and I'd shake my head as I'd paddle back out to try again. Or he'd quietly ask me if I'd gotten any yet, and again, I'd shake my head... My brothers were catching more waves than they could count, and I couldn't get a single one. Sometimes it would be because someone else had priority, other times because I just couldn't get into the wave.

After about forty-five minutes, as I paddled past my dad again, shaking my head again, he grabbed my board, told me to turn around and get ready. He shoved me into a beautiful left that was all my own. I rode it all the way, even cross-stepping to stay in the wave. I was beyond stoked! I paddled back out double-time for a second, and Dad obliged. After 4 waves, he said he was going in to get his own board, and I said that was fine, I was just gonna catch one more and then I'd be going in.

Nothing doing. That was the story of my entire day. It seemed like every single thing I tried to do on my own, with my own strength or power was a bust. I got a lot accomplished, and made some personal breakthroughs in my running, surfing and even in my volleyball, but they were only because I was depending on other people to help me. I couldn't rely on myself for anything. The concept didn't dawn on me until after dinner that maybe God was trying to teach me something. Once I realized that, it kinda put my whole day into perspective, and wiped away the frustration of it all.

I wonder what God is going to teach me today? I really hope it doesn't take me until after dinner to figure it out.


  1. Aw!! I think you're amazing! :) And I love the way you write and I Love you!!!

  2. I just stumbled on your blog. I am so impressed with your writing. The Lord has given you a gift of excellent communication skills. Keep up the great work as you glorify God!

    You are encouragement to me!

    Nancy Lystrup


Thank you for your feedback! It encourages me more than you know.